Electric strikes and maglocks are the two workhorses of electric locking, and picking the wrong one is the most common mistake we see on new installs. Both release a door on a signal from a keypad, reader or intercom, but they behave very differently when the power fails, when the door slams, and when the fire alarm sounds. Here is how to choose with confidence.
How an electric strike works
An electric strike replaces the keep in the door frame — the metal plate the latch of an ordinary lock or nightlatch sits in. The mechanical latch stays engaged as normal, but when the strike receives a signal, its jaw pivots and lets the latch pull free, so the door opens without the handle being turned.
Because the mechanical lock does the holding, most strikes are configured fail-secure: cut the power and the door stays locked from the outside, while the handle or latch still works from inside. That makes electric strikes and releases a natural fit for doors that must stay secured through a power cut, such as stores, server rooms and street doors with a nightlatch already fitted.
How a maglock works
A maglock is simply a powerful electromagnet fixed to the frame, gripping a steel armature plate on the door. There are no moving parts at all — nothing to wear, jam or bind — which is why maglocks and door magnets are so popular on high-traffic doors.
The trade-off is that a maglock only holds while it has power. It is inherently fail-safe: cut the power and the door releases instantly. That is exactly what you want on an escape route, and exactly what you do not want on a door protecting valuables unless you add battery backup.
The decision factors
Escape route or security area?
This is the first question, and often the last. If the door sits on an escape route, a fail-safe lock that releases on power loss or alarm activation is usually the sensible choice — your fire risk assessment governs what is acceptable on escape routes, so confirm before you fit anything. If the priority is keeping a room locked at all costs, a fail-secure strike keeps the latch engaged even in a blackout.
Door material
Strikes need a frame deep enough to house them and a door with a latching lock. Frameless glass doors offer neither, which is why maglocks — fitted with the right brackets — and electric drop bolts dominate on glass. Slim housing-style maglocks also suit narrow-stile aluminium shopfront doors where a standard unit will not fit.
Power draw
A maglock draws current continuously, every hour the door is locked, so your power supply and any battery backup must be sized for it. A fail-secure strike only draws current for the few seconds it takes someone to pass through. On a large multi-door system, that difference adds up.
Intercom and system compatibility
Most audio and video door entry systems are designed to trigger a lock release for a timed period, and both lock types will do the job — but check whether your intercom switches the polarity a fail-safe device expects. If you are matching a lock to a keypad, reader or intercom for the first time, a complete locking kit takes the guesswork out by pairing components that are proven to work together.
Choose this if…
- Choose a maglock if: the door is on an escape route, sees heavy daily traffic, or you want zero moving parts to maintain.
- Choose an electric strike if: the door must stay locked in a power cut, already has a latching lock or nightlatch fitted, or you want the lowest possible power consumption.
- Choose a drop bolt if: you need a discreet, flush fitting on a glass or double-leaf door where neither of the above suits.
Neither device is "better" — they solve different problems. Match the lock to the door, the escape strategy and the power arrangement, and either will give years of reliable service.
Ready to specify the right lock first time? Browse our maglocks, electric strikes and complete locking kits — order before 4pm for free next-day UK delivery. Email hello@securemydoor.co.uk for free advice, 7 days a week.